Winter Garden / Ocoee

RV & BOAT STORAGE

407-256-4061

Covered

STORAGE

Winter Garden Ocoee, Florida

Secured

STORAGE

Winter Garden / Ocoee, Florida

Outside

STORAGE

Winter Grden / Ocoee, Florida

MAP

24 Hour

Access

 

Hose Hook Up

Why Store your boat with us?

Storing your boat at our Ocoee Florida Boat and Rv Secured Storage location can be easy. Our Ocoee Fl, outside RV & Boat storage location has 24 hour electronic access with audit trail for the safety of your boat and RV. The property is surrounded with a fence with barbwire and backed up to the 429 toll road.† The Ocoee Fl storage center has security cameras 24 hours a day. Reasons people store there boats can vary. Sometimes people store there Boats & Rvís with us to simplify there lives.† In other cases people store there rvís and Boats with us because they live in a subdivision that does not allow the storage of a Boat or Rv.

LOWEST PRICES

Hose your boat off at our Ocoee, FL† RV & BOAT STORAGE

Our winter Garden / Ocoee Storage Facility offer hose hook up for cleaning and running your boat. The hose hook up & usage is free of charge and great for letting your boat run or cleaning after saltwater. Cleaning your boat after saltwater is very important for keeping your boat in tip top shape. Salt actually has several negative effects on anything it comes in contact with in Florida. First, you already know that it is corrosive to metals. What you're less likely aware of is that it is also corrosive to boat finishes of all kinds, including gel coat. That's why the finish on your hull sides, which don't get much sun, also deteriorates as though it were getting the full dose of ultra violet. But when salt dries into crystals, it's also abrasive, just like sand.

†salt is hydroscopic. That means that salt is capable of condensing water out of the atmosphere when humidity is high. That's why they put salt on dusty roads to keep the dust down. The salt will also mix with dew at night to become salt water once again.

When washing down your boat in Florida, it's best to follow this simple plan

First, you should first spray the entire boat with a fine spray to get everything wet. The reason is that it takes a minute or two for dry salt crystals to dissolve completely. This should include all hardware like a pipe frame top, T-top or tower. Not only do you rinse the outside, but also the inside and under side of the top. If you don't, the aluminum is going to look ugly real soon. Be sure to spray around all that piping that holds the soft top up, if that's what you have. If it's a sail boat, try to hit as high up on the mast and rigging as possible.

After you wet everything, give it a few minutes for salt crystals to dissolve. After 5 minutes or so come back and hose it down thoroughly. For the final rinse, in Ocoee / Winter Garden, start from the top down, doing the hull sides last.  On a flying bridge boat, start with the bridge first. This will help prevent water streaking at those points where water runs down from the superstructure, finally rinsing the hull sides last.

If you have an outboard boat, don't forget to do the engines, including the undersides of the mount brackets. I do this after tilting the motors up. As for seat cushions, after washing them stand them on their sides or edges, zipper side down, . You should also store them like this so they do not hold water and rot, Do these things and they'll probably last twice as long.

When hosing down your cockpit decks, it's a good idea not to use a high pressure nozzle.† because that high pressure will work water under your hatches and end up in the engine compartment where steel parts will rust. It's best use a fine spray, rather than a blasting stream, around all windows and hatches. I pay special attention to get all salt off of things like winches, radar scanners and other such expensive components.

I'm not going to suggest that you dry down the whole boat, though some people do. But you should at least do the windows to avoid permanent water spotting. I would always dry down the helm area and most all plastics and bright metal.

Detergents and Cleansers   To avoid damage to your boat never use strong detergents, and most especially abrasive, chlorinated cleansers on your boat for general cleaning. First because the chlorine is corrosive and will permanently stain and discolor virtually anything that is anodized aluminum, like rub rails, windshields and trim. If you have a small area of imbedded dirt, try to use a stiff brush first. If that doesn't do it, you can use a non-chlorinated cleanser, or better yet a specially formulated boat cleaner. ALWAYS be sure to fully rinse away all residue, including the places where it runs over the side or out the scuppers.

Types of Brushes As a general boat cleaning brush, I'd first recommend one of those imitation lamb's wool jobs as these are least abrasive on bright finishes. For tougher areas like non-skid, select a natural, not plastic, medium stiffness bristle brush. Avoid very stiff bristles as these will scratch. Use the lamb's wool on any surface that you'd wax; use the bristle brush only on the non-skid surfaces.

Windows & Tracks If you have sliding windows in your boat, the tracks and aluminum window frames will last a lot longer if you rinse and clean them out occasionally. You'll be amazed when you see how much dirt and salt these tracks can accumulate. I actually take the hose with nozzle inside and squirt the accumulated debris and salts out until the track is clean. Usually twice per year will do the trick during a short season, 4 times annually for a 12 month season.

Deck Drains  While you're at it, use that pressure hose to clean out all those little drain holes in the deck hatch gutters. If those drains clog up with debris, as they often do, the gutters will overflow and put water into places it shouldn't be. Like maybe on your engines or generator? Also check for these drains around window frames and anchor or rope locker compartments, too. Anywhere they exist, they need cleaning occasionally.

A Better Mobile Storage INC.

407-256-4061